Santa Teresa is the ideal location for yoga, surfing, and relaxation.

On the Nicoya Peninsula of Costa Rica, the laid-back seaside town of Santa Teresa has been on my travel bucket list for a long. Its palm-lined beaches, surf scene, and Pura Vida attitude have long drawn me there. Therefore, it seemed fated when COVID-19 limitations started to loosen as my son's first birthday approached. Travel is the finest present, in my opinion. I decided it would be a nice idea to take my son, Miles, to Santa Teresa for a whole month instead of a birthday party, and with the stars appearing to be in perfect alignment, we did just that.

We arrived after dark. Our driver informed us that he couldn't continue after four and a half hours of driving when we pulled up next to a convenience store on a dusty, unpaved road. We made our way in the dark up a rocky slope and down a steep incline to Nala, our vacation rental. With a baby strapped to my chest, the journey was jarringly short but challenging. Was this the only way in or out? Is it possible for me to become used to the route? Everything would have to wait until the following morning.

Things looked and felt different as the sun rose. Giant windows that nearly spanned the full length of the living area allowed light to pour in. I could now truly take it all in, unlike the previous evening when we had raced to set up the pack-and-play and passed out ourselves. With concrete floors and sleek furniture, our one-bedroom apartment was contemporary and nicely designed. Before breakfast, I ventured out onto the balcony, which overlooked the pool and a verdant garden area. I also visited the on-site yoga studio and went for a swim. Compared to how I remembered the descent from the previous evening, the climb up the hill felt much less perilous. (Spoiler: I ultimately adapted to performing the round-trip route numerous times each day.)

This is an excellent time to pause and discuss some travel-related details. There is only one main road in Santa Teresa, and it follows the coastline. It's not paved, and during the dry season, it can be rather dusty. The majority of residents and visitors commute around in SUVs or ATVs with four-wheel drive. Our mode of transportation, however, was walking because renting a car for a month would have been expensive and because my husband and I didn't feel comfortable putting our one-year-old on an ATV (although we saw numerous babies and toddlers riding about absolutely undisturbed).

The Bakery, a bustling all-day cafe that serves coffee, fresh juices, Israeli cuisine, and — as you probably guessed from the name — all kinds of scrumptious sweet and savory baked products, came into view after approximately five minutes of strolling along the bumpy road. We had discovered our go-to breakfast location after one tropical fruit cup, one cast-iron skillet of shakshuka, and one baby-size serving of scrambled eggs. Ani's, another outstanding breakfast spot, creates the most deliciously rich and creamy smoothie bowls. The breakfast served to children in Costa Rica was Miles' favorite part.

We played about in the pool after our little guy took his morning nap and tried to relax in the hammock, which turned out to be less relaxing with a soon-to-be toddler. The afternoon went on as most others do, with several carefree hours spent on the beach. Miles joined us as we played in the fine sand, went swimming, looked at the surfers, and investigated the tidal pools at low tide. Despite my best intentions to take a surfing lesson while we were there, neither my husband nor I were able to surf but seeing locals and tourists ride the waves was still a lot of fun.

Israeli cuisine is widely available in Santa Teresa, along with Italian, sushi, and, of course, Costa Rican cuisine. We had dinner at Angelina Santa Teresa on our first night there, and we kept going back because of the roasted vegetable plate, the penne with arrabbiata sauce, and the friendly ambiance. I advise visiting Amici Santa Teresa if you're wanting pizza. The fresh ingredients are used to make the crispy wood-fired pies. Also, don't overlook the grain salad with cashew cheese, herbs, and spices.

I can't remember how many times we ate at La Cevicheria for dinner and lunch. The menu also offers daily-changing fresh juices and poke bowls made with yellowfin tuna caught in the nearby Mal Pais in addition to the restaurant's renowned ceviches. (Don't make me choose between the passionfruit and the watermelon.) Uma Santa Teresa was without a doubt our favorite beachfront dining establishment. Sharing a variety of Mediterranean small appetizers, whole grilled fish, and Greek salad is recommended along with reserving a shaded table with a view of the ocean via WhatsApp.

We adored El Corazón, a busy outdoor restaurant up a hill on the jungle side of the road, for a great date night on the rare occasions we had a babysitter. The ambiance, cuisine, which features plants in intriguing and delectable ways, and the beautifully crafted beverages are all tempting. Almost everyone, including myself, will enthusiastically recommend Koji as the place to go for the best sushi in Santa Teresa. A Japanese chef prepares nigiri, sashimi, and Crudo using only the freshest fish that has been caught nearby. It is a perfect illustration of how cooking can transcend borders and respect what is available without eschewing traditional methods.

Well, that and the beach, because those two are intricately linked, are what draw many tourists to Santa Teresa. As I've already indicated, I didn't go on a board, but I did speak with several others who had just experienced some incredible rides, and they raved about Del Soul Surf School and Pura Vida Adventures. Popular retreats here include yoga and surfing. To find some zen, though, you don't have to dedicate a week to waves and downward dogs. It's nice to practice yoga while overlooking the water at Hotel Tropico Latino's outdoor shala. At the two locations in Selina as well as the Horizon Hotel & Yoga Center, non-guests are welcome to practice.

I have a habit of packing lightly, which gives me lots of room in my suitcase for souvenirs. On this trip, it was particularly fortunate that way because Santa Teresa is home to numerous exquisite boutiques. Swimwear should be fashionable and practical, according to the design ethos of Dkoko, which focuses on sporty yet adorable one-pieces and bikinis. The store next door, La Maga, offers handcrafted soap and bucket hats with vibrant prints. At Calm & Co., I purchased some hydrating rosewater face mist and hand-poured candles. To stock up on the tastiest organic vegetables, including fresh papaya, mango, and caimito, as well as a Costa Rican cashew butter that I still daydream about every day, my family and I frequently visited Green World Store.

We didn't feel forced to do anything throughout the month other than enjoy the beach and the little shops in town. Nevertheless, the region offers some spectacular day outings, from Isla Tortuga to Montezuma, along with deep-sea fishing expeditions and after-dark tours of Paquera Bay's bioluminescent features. One day, after a 10-minute taxi ride to Mal Pais, we walked to a remote cove to swim and investigate the tidal pools before having lunch at Tierra Mar. The full distance between Santa Teresa and Mal Pais can be covered on foot; it's probably not advisable to do so when carrying a newborn. Dolphins can be seen playing in the surf at the lovely Playa Hermosa beach, which is to the north of the city.

We chose to end our vacation with a couple of nights at Nantipa, a boutique hotel with a focus on sustainability that is encircled in thick vegetation and positioned on one of the finest stretches of coastline. The detached bungalows provide seclusion and indoor-outdoor living thanks to sliding glass doors and leaf-covered patios with plunge pools and hammocks. It surely helped that La Cevicheria and Uma Santa Teresa were nearby. Manzu, the hotel's seaside restaurant, holds its own, nevertheless. The best way to see Santa Teresa is to reserve one of the low-slung tables in the front, get fish gallos and a rum daiquiri or fruit smoothie, and watch the surfers arrive as the sun starts to set.