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Home / TRAVEL GUIDES / London / Is this London's most inventive restaurant, according to the Ikoyi restaurant review?

Is this London's most inventive restaurant, according to the Ikoyi restaurant review?

2023-04-07  Diana Solomon

The center of the creative industries now has a new site for London's cutting-edge area. 

Irina Boersma

Ikoyi, a restaurant on the picturesque St. James's Boulevard, debuted in 2017 under the direction of celebrity chef Jeremy Chan and businessman Iré Hassan-Odukale. Ikoyi, the restaurant's name, is influenced by Nigerian culture, but the idea is universal because it is based on a huge variety of spices from across the world. Although many of these spices originate in West Africa, the flavor Ikoyi chooses has an international flair.

Their new location at 180 the Strand is a clear indication of Ikoyi's development, and the design there builds on the warm earth tones of the former location (copper, yellow, and pink). Through strikingly curved walls and steel-mesh ceilings, their bigger spot illuminates. Ikoyi is always evolving, offering dishes that are blind-tasted to delight the senses with creative ingredient combinations. No one can completely forecast the creative boundaries of Chan and his culinary staff, despite the restaurant having two Michelin stars under its belt and ranking among the World's 50 Best Restaurants last year. 

Irina Boersma a
Ikoyi's interiors

Chan is redefining Ikoyi's culinary history with his subjective interpretations of recipes; the aim is to cram flavor rather than authenticity into seasonal dishes made with the product at its ripest. Think of a creative take on the traditional jollof rice of West Africa, exposed in a light smokey haze with bits of grilled lobster and lobster custard. Ikoyi's blind-tasting menu is full of items that pair well together and are aesthetically presented from the open kitchen. The delicious variations that the plantain entrée has undergone over the years—currently topped with roasted peanut and served with a seasoned efo emulsion—remain a fan favorite. The service is even more beautiful if you are seated in the private dining room, which can accommodate six guests since the meals are delivered on a virtually imperceptible turntable. Even the two dessert courses that Jeremy personally delivers to the end are light and well-balanced dishes with a nice aesthetic effect. We remain confident in the culinary characteristic of Ikoyi even if the menu varies depending on the season. 

Ikoyi's initial location's limited size prevented it from offering a substantial wine selection in St. James's Market. Now, sommelier Lorenzo Lentini makes imaginative wine selections from a wider range of international suppliers. Both well-known wine areas and lesser-known locales are included. There is a small selection of cocktails to choose from, including the slightly sweet palm punch prepared with rum, palm wine, baobab, and spices. Similar to wine tasting, a fragrant non-alcoholic tea match is also available. As each course is served in a Yunomi cup, the origins of each tea are described. Five or eight dishes can be served with wine and tea. 

Irina Boersma b
Ikoyi's interiors

Eco effort

Jeremy and Iré have long embraced the goal of sourcing regional and highly seasonal products as many London cooks do. To guarantee that tastes are delivered in their peak condition, Jeremy creates meals using sustainable line-caught fish, pork, and produce that farmers and fishermen bring to the table.  

Access for people with disabilities

The outside patio and handicapped restrooms are on the ground floor, where the full restaurant is also situated.

Verdict

When you return to Ikoyi for a fresh tasting menu, your mind is just as blown away as the first time since it is so difficult to top the experience. Every time, the inventive and original cuisine pairings used throughout the courses are a hit. 

Price: £££

The address is: 180 Strand, Temple, London WC2R 1EA

Booking online

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2023-04-07  Diana Solomon