Find out more about how you can make your visit to the carnival an experience that is both instructive and considerate.
When I was in Jamaica a month ago, on a random Sunday morning, I was thinking about the merits of a nearby mimosa wall when two men approached me with a microphone and camera to ask about something much more important: What makes Carnival so special?
It took me an uncomfortably long time to respond, especially considering that my job is to put words together. I'll blame the delay on either the scorching overhead sun or on the aforementioned mimosa wall, depending on who is asking the question. However, even when everything goes according to plan, it's difficult to adequately describe how exhilarating and liberating the experience can be.
In the modern Caribbean, much of the revelry that makes up carnivals originated during times of enslavement and as a direct form of opposition to that institution. This is similar to the development of other cultural traditions found throughout the African diaspora.
The origins of the Carnival rites may be traced back to the 18th century in Trinidad and Tobago, which is considered to be the epicenter of the festival. At that time, enslaved people deliberately set fire to sugarcane that European colonizers intended to sell. A strong rebuke was sent to them when they destroyed the item that had been produced by their own forced labor. In stark contrast to the masquerade balls conducted by plantation owners before to the beginning of Lent, which neither enslaved nor liberated Black people were permitted to attend, the activity that became known as Canboulay (the name originates from canes brûlées, which is French for burnt cane) stood out. Can Boulay was derived from the French word cannes brûlées. The uprising at Canboulay was one that should be celebrated.
After nearly two centuries have passed since Trinidad's freedom, the percussive music and electric energy that marked Can Boulay's first versions continue to pulse through what is now known as Carnival. In the 1950s, students at the University of the West Indies in Jamaica staged celebrations inspired by Trinidad's, an annual event that is today referred to as "UWI Carnival." These traditions have also extended to other Caribbean nations.
But the first formal staging of a Jamaica Carnival didn't take place until 1990, which is a little more than three decades ago. In 1974, the late Jamaican artist Byron Lee, who was the bassist and bandleader of The Dragonaires, went to Trinidad for Carnival. This journey increased Lee's love of the music of Trinidad and Tobago's sister island, so much so that he died there. During the Carnival season, The Dragonizes would go on to perform in Trinidad for more than a decade before Lee, along with the well-known Trinidadian maestro Stephen Derek, introduced a Trini-style Carnival to Jamaica.
The Jamaica Carnival attracted big audiences, who danced and celebrated while soca and calypso (the sounds of Trinidad) were played throughout the streets of Kingston. Despite the fact that it did face some criticism inside the country, it was nonetheless successful in drawing large numbers. Less than a decade after Carnival had begun on his own island, Lee credited the popularity of the event in Jamaica to the influence of soca music.
In 1998, he gave an interview to the magazine Caribbean Beat in which he compared reggae to an implosion and sofa to an explosion. "Listening to soca music will ease all of your aches and pains."
During my trip to Jamaica for Carnival a month ago, it was difficult not to think about Lee's love for soca. It was impossible to escape the thought. People seemed to have let go of everything, from the commonplace anxieties of everyday life to the definite melancholy of missing Carnival while the pandemic was at its peak. Everywhere I looked, people seemed to be letting go of everything.
It's been six years since I went to Trinidad for Carnival, but the whirlwind of activity and excitement that was infused with soca music is still one of my most cherished memories from that trip. When I was making plans for my Carnival vacation this year, I was delighted about the possibility of playing mas in a new location and of hearing soca music being played loudly throughout Jamaica.
How I Prepared for the Carnival in Jamaica
In most cases, selecting a band far in advance is necessary if you want to participate in all of the activities that are available during the Carnival. During the festivities, bands supply everything from food and drink to the magnificent costumes that Carnival is known for being famous for.
Your band will be your home base whether you are dancing in the brightness of the sun or gathering in the dead of night for J'Ouvert, the thrilling pre-sunrise rite that commemorates the treacherous journey to freedom taken by enslaved people. J'Ouvert takes place before sunrise. GenXS Jamaica was the party that my boyfriend and I decided to attend, although other options available to revelers included Bacchanal Jamaica, Ocho Rios Carnival, Yard Mas, and Xodus.
It is a small world to see Carnival Sensation again in my Jamaica vacation seeing it in Grand Turk on my Holland America cruise.#carnival #sensation #ochorios #cruiseship #Jamaica https://t.co/DCXEqgL7Xk pic.twitter.com/MpTv8oBE4B
— Neal (@neal08ni) February 27, 2019
We stayed at the ROK Hotel Kingston, which is a gorgeously designed and recently built hotel located in the heart of the downtown art district in Kingston. (The abbreviation in the name of the property stands for the "Revival/Rebirth/Renaissance of Kingston.") "Renaissance of Kingston"
The hotel provides guests with a hearty breakfast buffet in addition to items that may be ordered to order. There are two restaurants on-site, and we ate our fill of freshly crisped wings with jerk sauce and red stripe with fresh lime juice while recharging on the pool-side cabanas. For lunch and dinner, as well as snacks throughout the day, guests have the option of dining at one of these restaurants. Over on the other side of the street, Kingston's waterfront and harbor are home to a number of restaurants, including a cozy pizza joint and an ice cream parlor that serve up dishes that are friendlier on the wallet but just as delectable in taste.
Not everyone is able to play mas, nor does everyone want to play mas. There are still a lot of activities that you can go to during the season, even if the idea of marching in the hot heat for hours on end isn't your thing, regardless of whether soca or rum punch is fuelling you.
This past year, we had a great time at the performances that were held at the Sabina Park stadium in Kingston. True to the spirit of Carnival, soca and calypso reigned supreme: legendary Trinidadian artists such as Kes the Band, Bunji Garlin, Nailah Blackman, and Machel Montano all performed to crowds of adoring fans from all over the Caribbean (and the world), constantly putting an emphasis on connections across the African diaspora and the beauty of celebrating this moment together. Do you want a taste from a distance? This music is going to keep you on your feet all day long.
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No matter how popular the road may be, a visit to Jamaica is not considered to be complete without spending considerable time by the water. Therefore, a few days before we marched through the streets of Kingston, we took our energy to the sea — on a sunset beach fete and catamaran cruise organized by Sunrise Events, which also occurred to feature alcoholic beverages, edibles, and a whole lot of positive energy. You haven't really lived until you've done something as essential to the human experience as dancing to soca on a boat while holding a fried plantain.
2023 Carnivals
The Jamaica Carnival has come to an end for the year, but if you are dead set on attending the Trinidad Carnival in Kingston or Port of Spain in 2024, it is not too early to start planning. Trinidad Carnival takes place even sooner, in February. You may always follow the bands you're most interested in on Instagram to stay up to speed on the sign-up windows for the following year and to see the reveal of new outfits.
Concierge services, such as Carnival Hunters or Ultimate Trinidad Carnival, can take even more of the legwork out of the process of preparing your trip by arranging your transport, makeup, and other aspects of your preparations.
And we should give thanks that the Carnival season has not yet come to a close throughout the rest of the Caribbean. There are still numerous opportunities available to you for this year if you are determined to travel.
Next up is Bermuda, which will hold its Carnival the following month, between the 16th and the 19th of June. If you are interested in playing mas, there is still time for you to get in touch with one of the three bands that the country has this year: Party People, Nova Mas, or Code Red. (If you're more interested in the vibes than the complete Carnival shebang, we've got you covered - here's T+L's guide to the island, which is just a short flight away from the majority of the East Coast.)
On the relatively small islands, the St. Vincent and the Grenadines Carnival, known as "Vincymas," packs a significant amount of excitement. This year's Vincymas celebration will take place from the 30th of June to the 11th of July, and it is sure to be a musically delectable good time. Visit vincymas.vc to get an overview of the bands that you can participate in the parade with. Although we are big admirers of the relatively secluded hotels on the country's smaller islands, we recommend that you book a room on the mainland if you wish to visit Vincymas. It is recommended that you book your stay at the Blue Lagoon Hotel & Marina as soon as possible because there is a good chance that it may sell out in the near future.
In addition, the St. Lucia Carnival takes place during the entire month of July, commencing on the first and ending on the nineteenth. Visit the website carnivalsaintlucia.com to learn more about the many bands from which you can pick, and if you've got some time to go throughout the lush mountainous nation, make sure to take a break from the mayhem of Carnival by staying at the opulent cliffside Ti Kaye Resort & Spa.
Antigua's yearly Carnival takes place between the 27th of July and the 8th of August. The history of Carnival on Antigua, which is one of my favorite islands, is quite extensive. You may learn more about this year's mas bands by visiting antiguacarnival.com. However, even if you aren't planning on taking part in the competition formally, it is well worth your time to visit Antigua and Barbuda so that you can listen to the world-famous steel bands. One of the most modern and luxurious hotels on the island, the Hodges Bay Resort & Spa can be found on the northern shore of Antigua.
During the month of August, spice things up in Grenada by attending "Spicemas," which takes place from the first of the month to the fifteenth. You should anticipate a J'Ouvert experience in Grenada that is extremely high-octane and that expressly stresses the tradition's beginnings as a rebuke of former colonists. You can expect to see people covered in black oil with devil horns well before the sun rises. If you are more interested in feathers than pitchforks, you can find information on "Fancy Mas" bands at spicemasgrenada.com. The Coyaba Beach Resort is an option that is both convenient and affordable, located directly on Grand Anse Beach.
And of course, no guide to the Carnival season would be complete without a mention of the legendary Crop Over celebrations that take place in Barbados every year. Rihanna has been seen there serving looks for what seems like an eternity. The Crop Over Festival is a festival of Bajan music, food, and arts that lasts for around three months and culminates in a masquerade parade known as Kadooment Day. This year, Grand Kadooment Day is going to be on August 7th, so you'll want to make sure you're in town at least a week before then. The announcement of the Mas bands is expected to take place later this month. On the south coast of the island, you'll find the charming boutique resort of Bougainvillea Barbados.
There is still hope for you even though it is unlikely that you will be able to go abroad in the near future. In the weeks leading up to Labor Day, Brooklyn will once again play host to the West Indian Day Parade, while Miami will celebrate its own Carnival in the month of October.